Seoul: The Most Underrated Major City in Asia

I arrived in Seoul expecting Japan-lite. I found something entirely its own: a city of 10 million people where 14th-century palaces sit between glass towers, where the food operates at a different level of intensity than anywhere else in Asia, and where the nightlife in Hongdae starts at midnight and ends when the sun comes up.

The Palaces

Seoul has five grand palaces from the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1897). Gyeongbokgung is the largest and most photogenic — the main palace of the dynasty, destroyed by the Japanese, rebuilt, and now impeccably maintained. The Changing of the Guard ceremony happens every hour. The National Folk Museum of Korea sits within the grounds. Go in the morning.

Changdeokgung and its Secret Garden (Huwon) require advance reservation for the garden, but the garden — a 78-acre forested landscape of pavilions, ponds, and bamboo groves — is among Korea's most beautiful places. The afternoon tours in English run daily.

Bukchon Hanok Village: A neighborhood of 600+ traditional hanok houses preserved between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung. Best at 7 AM before the tourist rush. Wear comfortable shoes for the steep alleys.

The Food

Korean food is one of the world's great cuisines. In Seoul:

Korean BBQ: KBBQ is the social institution — tabletop charcoal grills, server-managed meat cooking, banchan (side dishes) that refill endlessly. Mapo Galbi (pork ribs) in Mapo, Maple Tree House in Itaewon (premium beef), or any of the dozens of KBBQ spots in Hongdae.

Chimaek: Fried chicken plus beer. Korea's national snack ritual. Buzzed chickens a bit north of Myeong-dong are the classic go-to; Hostel Chimaek in Hongdae for student budget; Nene Chicken for the chain experience.

Gamjatang: Pork bone and potato stew, eaten communally from a large pot over a burner. Spicy, rich, extraordinary. Any neighborhood restaurant, especially late night.

Bibimbap: Rice topped with seasoned vegetables, gochujang (chili paste), and egg. The Jeonju version (from a city 3 hours south) is the best. In Seoul, Gogung in Insadong.

Street food in Gwangjang Market: The oldest market in Seoul (1905). The sundae (blood sausage), mayak gimbap (addictive rice rolls), and bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes) are the must-orders.

Neighborhoods

Gangnam: The wealthy south-side neighborhood. Apgujeong Rodeo Drive for luxury shopping, COEX Mall for the massive underground complex including the Starfield Library (a public library of 50,000 books displayed floor-to-ceiling as a public art installation).

Itaewon: The international neighborhood, historically a US military base area. More ethnically diverse than the rest of Seoul, excellent international food, LGBTQ-friendly bars.

Hongdae: University neighborhood. Art, music, street performances, the best nightlife in Seoul (and that is saying something). Club NB, Freebird, and Cakeshop for electronic and hip-hop.

Insadong: Art galleries, tea houses, traditional craft shops, and the best souvenir hunting. Ssamziegil (an indie shopping complex) and the traditional Unhyeongung palace.

🌍 Seoul awaits. [Find cheap flights →](https://www.aviasales.com/?marker=4132) and [book hotels in Seoul →](https://www.booking.com/searchresults.html?ss=Seoul&aid=YOUR_BOOKING_AFFILIATE_ID).

Practical Tips

Transportation: The Seoul Metro is one of the world's best — cheap (₩1,400 per ride with T-money card), fast, and with English signage. Taxis are cheap by Western standards (₩3,800 base fare). Kakao T app for ride booking.

Language: Korean is difficult. However, many signs are bilingual, and young Koreans speak reasonable English. The Papago app (Korean-developed) translates Korean menus by camera instantly.

Cost: Seoul is moderately priced. Street food: ₩2,000-5,000. Restaurant meal: ₩10,000-20,000. Rooftop bar cocktail: ₩15,000-25,000.

Day trips: Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) tours are 90 minutes from Seoul and include the observation decks, infiltration tunnels, and Joint Security Area. Among the most extraordinary day trips available anywhere.

[Book tours and experiences in Seoul](https://www.getyourguide.com/s/?q=Seoul&partner_id=PARTNER_ID) — the DMZ tours and Korean cooking classes are exceptional.

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